Fence Cost Per Foot Calculator

Planning fence cost per foot calculator starts with one honest number: how much material you actually need. This page walks through that number using the typical spacings, waste allowances and bag counts in our material data — and it starts with a warning worth taking seriously. The result here is an estimate, not a guarantee: board sizes, pack sizes and prices vary by brand, product line and region, and the label on the product you buy governs. A board that looks identical on two shelves can be a different width or length, and a deck or fence that measures the same on paper can need very different amounts of material once the cuts, the joist spacing and the waste are counted. That is why every figure below is shown as a range, and why the calculator on this page asks for your measurements instead of handing you a single magic number.

The second thing to know is that decking is counted in square feet plus the typical 5–10% waste allowance, and fencing is counted in linear feet with posts typically spaced 8 ft apart. Joists are typically spaced 12–16 in apart, screws run 2 per board per joist, and concrete per fence post is typically 1–2 50 lb bags. A cubic yard is 27 cubic feet, and an 80 lb bag of concrete yields about 0.6 cubic feet, so about 45 80 lb bags make a cubic yard. The rest of this page works through the calculation, a full worked example, cost guidance and the steps to measure, order and check your materials before you start.

How the calculation works

Fence cost follows from the length: posts typically spaced 8 ft apart, pickets counted from the picket width plus the typical 5–10% waste allowance, and concrete at typically 1–2 50 lb bags per post. The material moves the price most — vinyl costs more per foot than wood, cedar costs more than pine, and pressure-treated wood sits between them — and gates, corners and labour add to the total. The calculator does not quote a single national price, because fence prices vary by material, retailer and region — it gives the quantities, and you multiply by the shelf price of the exact product.

Worked example: budgeting a 100 ft wood fence

Step 1 — posts. Fence posts are typically spaced 8 ft apart, so 100 ft ÷ 8 ft = 12 sections, plus one end post, giving 13 posts.

Step 2 — pickets. With a stated example assumption of nominal 6 in pickets, 100 ft × 12 in ÷ 6 in = 200 pickets before waste, and with the typical 5–10% waste allowance that becomes 210–221 pickets.

Step 3 — price it from the shelf. Multiply the picket and post counts by the shelf price of the exact products, then add rails, concrete and labour if you hire it. Result: about 13 posts and 210–221 pickets for a 100 ft fence, priced from the shelf per foot — an estimate, because fence prices vary by material, retailer and region.

Cost guidance

Costs on this page are ranges, labelled typical retail range — check the current shelf price before budgeting. No single national price is quoted, because decking, fencing, concrete and fastener prices vary by brand, product line, region and retailer, and a price that is right in one store can be wrong in the next. The way to budget is to multiply, not to guess: take the quantities from the worked example, multiply each by the shelf price of the exact product you have chosen, then add joists, screws, concrete, footings and delivery. The material moves the price most — composite costs more per square foot than pressure-treated wood, cedar sits between them and redwood costs more still, while vinyl fencing costs more per foot than wood fencing.

Two cost traps catch first-time buyers. The first is ordering the low end of the range and then paying a second delivery charge for the boards or pickets that finish the job. The second is forgetting the frame and the consumables: joists, screws, concrete and footings together are a meaningful share of a deck or fence job. Compare the total, not the per-board price, and keep spare boards or pickets from the same batch for future repairs. If you are hiring the work out, labour is usually quoted separately per square foot for decks or per linear foot for fences, and varies by region and by the ground conditions — a sloped site costs more than a flat one, so get the quote against the same measurements you used for the material count.

Step by step: measure, calculate, order

1. Measure twice. Measure the deck length and width, or the fence line, in feet, at the longest points, and note every gate, corner and change of direction. Ground is rarely flat — measure the slope, sketch the shape on paper, and convert inches to decimal feet (6 in = 0.5 ft) before multiplying.

2. Choose the material and the spacing. Pick the decking or fencing material first, then the joist spacing your product needs and the post spacing for your fence. The spacing decision belongs before the order, not after delivery, because it sets the joist, screw and post counts.

3. Use the calculator on this page. Enter the area or the length, the material and the spacing. The tool returns a range — plan on the high end. Check the product label against the calculator's assumed board width and spacing; if your boards are wider, the board count goes down but the area stays the same.

4. Order and check the delivery. Order the high end of the range, all from the same batch where it matters, and check the boards for warping and damage before building starts. Keep screws and concrete dry and within their shelf life.

5. Before you start building. Check the property line, local height rules and any permit needs, mark the post holes, and make sure you have spare boards, screws and concrete within reach. Finding you are a board short with the frame up is the most expensive kind of shortfall.

Common mistakes to avoid

The first mistake is measuring the deck or fence once and trusting it. Ground slopes, corners are rarely square and a fence line that looks straight can wander by a foot over its length — measure in sections and use the longest run. The second mistake is forgetting the waste allowance: boards are cut, ends are trimmed and a bad board is replaced, so the typical 5–10% extra is not padding, it is the job. The third mistake is buying the low end of every range at once — the low end of the board count, the low end of the screw count and the low end of the concrete count — which leaves no margin for a single bad cut. Buy the high end of the ranges that matter and keep the spares; a spare board from the same batch costs far less than a second trip. The fourth mistake is ignoring the ground: posts set too shallow or in too little concrete will lean, and footings above the frost line will heave, so dig to the depth your area needs and check local code before you pour.

Frequently asked questions

How much does a 100 ft wood fence cost?

It depends on the material and whether you hire the work. Budget it as about 13 posts and 210–221 pickets times the shelf price of the exact products, plus rails, concrete and labour — get the shelf price for the exact product.

Is a vinyl fence more expensive than a wood fence?

Usually yes per foot — vinyl costs more upfront than wood, but it needs almost no maintenance and never needs painting, so the lifetime cost can be closer than the upfront price suggests.

What adds to the cost of a fence?

Gates, corners, slopes and removal of an old fence all add cost. Labour is usually quoted separately per linear foot and varies by region and by the ground conditions.

Should I hire a contractor to build a fence?

Fences need straight posts and solid concrete, and mistakes show along the whole run, so many homeowners hire the posts even if they fix the pickets themselves. Get quotes against the same length and material so you can compare them fairly.

What should I check before buying fence materials?

Check the property line, local height rules and any homeowners' association rules before you order. Check post spacing, picket width and concrete per post on the product labels, and keep spare pickets from the same batch.

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